The names and meanings of “classic” African waxes
- Lucia Pavan/ likeUafrica
- 2 days ago
- 6 min read
African wax print fabrics are far more than just colorful cloths. Behind their diverse patterns lie stories, traditions, and meanings that reflect the culture and identity of many African communities. These fabrics have become symbols of pride, communication, and belonging, and are worn both on special occasions and in everyday life.
In this article, I'd like to introduce my personal collection of wax-print fabrics, their significance, and their stories. My favorite fabrics are the "classic" wax prints, whose patterns are still frequently imitated today. I first discovered these fabrics in Benin, where the pagne (a type of wrap skirt) is still part of everyday life. Some patterns immediately captivated me, and I began sewing clothes for myself and my family. Over the years, through anthropological books, exhibition catalogs, and the stories I passionately collect, I've delved deeper and deeper into the history of these fabrics. I try to share these stories with you when I talk about the fabrics I offer on likeUafrica , my "Made in Africa" concept and online shop. Therefore, in this blog, I've compiled texts I've posted on Instagram over the years, dedicated to the fabrics I've presented or used for some of the "Made in Africa" items available in the shop. You'll find the bibliographic information at the end of the article. These are updated regularly.
Origin and distribution of African waxes
Wax fabrics, also known as "African wax fabric," have a complex history where African, European, and Asian influences intersect. Although they are now considered a symbol of African identity, the wax-printing technique was only introduced to Africa in the 19th century by Dutch traders inspired by Indonesian batik. I invite you to read another blog post on this topic, which delves deeper into the history and origins of these fabrics.
These fabrics were adopted and reinterpreted by African communities, who created unique and meaningful patterns. Today, wax-printed fabrics are mainly produced in countries like Ghana, Nigeria, and Ivory Coast and are an integral part of African fashion and culture.
The meaning of the most popular patterns
Ghana's famous wax-print fabric traders, the "Nana Benz," began giving folk names to the wax-print fabrics coming onto the market and popularizing them. These names evoked various themes: love, work, everyday objects, animals, religion, and family. Wearing a particular fabric could also be a form of communication. Therefore, some patterns remain deeply rooted in tradition and hold significant meaning to this day. These patterns can represent proverbs, historical events, social values, or emotional states. Here are some of the most well-known patterns and their meanings:
1. The motif “wedding flower”
The wax print fabric "Wedding Flower" is undoubtedly the most famous in West Africa and is still available today in classic colors as well as in new collections. This design, created in 1979 by the Dutch manufacturer Vlisco, is one of the oldest and was an immediate success in Nigeria upon its market launch. It owes its popular name, "Wedding Flower," to the Ivory Coast. It depicts a hibiscus blossom, a symbol of joy and happiness in these countries, traditionally given to the bride and groom. Another interesting feature that has undoubtedly contributed to its popularity is the placement of the print motif on the cotton. For custom orders, which are very common in West Africa, this fabric can be cut and sewn along the warp, weft, or bias!
Discover it in the shop the original pages that are available with this design
2. The motif “Honey, don’t turn your back on me”.
A fabric of undeniable charm, one of the most iconic of the Wax Block Classics. The first design, created by Uniwax in Ivory Coast in 1984, was so successful that, contrary to the trend at the time, it was produced in numerous variations by their Dutch partner. This is how the fabric became the bestseller Vlisco 3686.
It is one of those fabrics that speaks of love, allowing women and men to communicate through the language of their clothing or simply through a loincloth tied around the waist. Its story, as recounted by anthropologist Anne Grosfilley in her 2017 book "Anthology of African Printed Fabrics," is unique. She tells the story of the head designer of an Ivorian textile company who found the inspiration for this motif while on holiday in France: on the paper a butcher had wrapped his roast in!
3. The motif “Congress” or “Lomé’s beautiful family”.
I would like to introduce you to one of the most popular wax block fabrics, better known as "Congress," which I offer at likeUafrica in a new colorway from the Uniwax brand. This design, dating back to 1955, gained its popular name in Ivory Coast and Benin after the first congress of an Ivorian political party. The fabric was extremely successful, particularly in its blue-indigo version with yellow and red motifs. As a staple in the "fabric suitcases" given to young brides as part of their dowry in West African countries, it symbolized unity. In Togo, it is known as "Belle famille de Lomé," and its popularity was further boosted by one of the most talented fabric merchants, Nana Benz Patience Sanvee, who held the exclusive distribution rights for this design in Togo for many years, making it the most expensive and sought-after fabric!
Based on various sources I have gathered over the years, I will continue to tell you the story of Wax Classique. I begin by mentioning Anne Grosfilley, some of whose publications I collect.
Here is the HIGH LIFE fabric, printed in a rare version in the colors of a classic of the genre ⭐️. Its name refers to a music genre, HIGHLIFE, which arose from many influences and was born in West Africa at the end of the 19th century, particularly in the colonized English-speaking countries: from Ghana to Liberia, via Sierra Leone and Nigeria, among the countries where traditional wax music spread 🌍.
A pattern from the 1970s with many popular names: King's shoe in Benin due to the similarity of the design to the sole of the leather sandals, "Huit-Huit", in reference to the number 8 or "Huitre" (oyster).
I know the story primarily by the name Matilda, which I first heard in Benin. After some research, I understood why. This name is the most recent; it appeared in almost all West African countries in 1990, when the story was revived and enjoyed renewed popularity. This coincided with the success of a Mexican telenovela, and one of the characters, Matilda, became associated with the story, which was subsequently marketed under that name.
These waxed fabrics have a long history and are among the fabrics found in the anthologies of African textiles I regularly consult. The legends surrounding each individual fabric are countless and sometimes vary from country to country, the cradle of this cultural tradition. Dutch waxed fabrics entered African culture at the end of the 19th century and originated in Togo, Benin, Ghana, and Ivory Coast, where they became part of everyday life. A book from Benin tells me much about these stories: there, this fabric is called "Mani," which means something like "Alone you can't accomplish much" or "Each finger alone can do nothing without the hand." In Togo, it is called "Hand of God," and in the Congo, "Musapi," which means "finger" in the local language and symbolizes unity and strength. It seems that Mani fabric is often part of the dowry of young women from Benin, symbolizing that they bring good and trustworthy hands to their new families.
Colors and their role in meaning
Besides the patterns, the colors of waxed fabrics also play an important role in conveying messages. Here are some examples:
Red : Energy, strength, passion, but also willingness to sacrifice and fighting.
Yellow : Wealth, fertility, prosperity.
Green : Growth, health, nature.
Blue : Peace, harmony, love.
Black : Spirituality, mystery, strength.
The combination of colors and patterns creates a rich and complex visual language that varies from region to region and from culture to culture.
How waxed fabrics tell personal and societal stories
Wax fabrics are not only cultural symbols but also a means of personal communication. In many African communities, the choice of a fabric for an event carries a specific message:
Weddings : Fabrics decorated with motifs of union, prosperity, and fertility.
Funerals : Creations that honor memory and spirituality.
Festivals and celebrations : bright colors and cheerful patterns express joy.
Demonstrations and political messages : Certain fabrics are used to express disagreement or solidarity.
Bibliography : Exhibition catalogues, personal reports and two publications by Anne Grosfilley: “WAX & co- Anthology of printed fabrics from Africa” from 2017 and “WAX 500 Fabrics” from 2019.
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